Review: Lucky Cat by Gordon Ramsay - Mayfair
Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat.
As a food-obsessed millennial raised in the heyday of reality TV, I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve daydreamed of slow dining on local produce, watching the sunset in a far-flung location with Anthony Bourdain for company. I’ve added lesser-known restaurants to my fantasy must-visit list after an intimate introduction via Chef’s Table, whilst consuming the narratives each chef conveys through their menu.
I’ve jokingly lamented the loss of Turkey Twizzlers from my high school dinners (a misguided notion, I’ll admit, and a reference to my palette that hasn’t aged well) against the wishes of Jamie Oliver; and baulked at many a forgotten, unlabelled tray lingering at the back of a walk-in on Kitchen Nightmares, eager to monitor another triumphant turnaround for a mom-and-pop restaurant.
Overall, my viewing preference in the field is specific: Step aside, MAFS, my idols are the architectural Kevin McCloud to my perfect plate. So, as very un-nonchalant as it may have been, I mewed with delight to receive our invitation to Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat.
The Raw Bar.
We arrive in Mayfair early evening, the sun still bright and shiny. As we ascend the stairs to a side entrance of the Marriott Hotel in Grosvenor Square, we pass an ornate faux cherry tree laden with blossom and the weight of many a selfie (I’ll admit, I didn't pass on the opportunity), and, in contrast, enter a shadowy, snug foyer where a red glowing Lucky Cat insignia beckons us.
As our eyes adjust, it transpires we’ve stepped into a vast speakeasy, where dark lacquered-wood-clad walls gleam under soft, warm lighting. Its reflection through bottles and glassware atop each table feels purposeful, enclosed by the glimmer of a sprawling brushed-metallic ceiling.
The space ensures you forget the outside world in but a moment, and unpretentiously seduces you to share a story about the rituals of dining. Reminiscent of Tokyo’s kissas, there are areas to pause, take a libation, and listen to the evening's soundtrack across from a wide bar. As we are led through, a raised dining space houses informal seating flanking the Raw Bar, home to plush leather chairs to sink into whilst you watch the sushi masters at work, amidst the slick bustle of dishes departing for each table.
Rounding a corner, you spot the open main kitchen beyond, with the Kitchen Table and Chef’s Table just ahead (each with its own menu selection for the seating experience), behind a smattering of banquette seating and low armchairs of the main restaurant dining. This stretch is for more prolonged dining, all in opulent fabrics, resonant tones and softly lit, creating pockets of privacy in a fast-flowing river of service.
As we settle at our table, the champagne arrives — NV Château Palmer, Le Réserve — with nutty, toasted notes and a beautiful golden-peach hue in the glass — to accompany our immersion into each menu.
The à la carte is a panorama of Asian fusion, from delicate appetisers and a selection of raw dishes, such as sashimi and nigiri, to bao and tempura, where you find the famed ‘GFC’, or Gordon’s fried chicken with hot Korean miso, seasoned cucumbers and black sesame. The main event features meat dishes like teriyaki baby chicken with Japanese aubergine, the A5 sirloin with mushroom and wasabi, and fish dishes like the grilled salmon with wasabi miso, accompanied by more traditional sides. Furthermore, an option between three tasting menus — Explore, Journey and Signature, each with an optional wine pairing — curates a selection for the table.
With our decisions made, each dish comes to the table as it’s ready, punctuating our conversation whilst we admire its attributes. First to arrive is the ‘pea guac’, with their house-made shrimp crackers. The airy dip, verdant yet creamy, is stunning despite its simplicity. Coupled with crackers bearing a smoky salinity and enduring umami, it’s a strong start.
Delicate, burnished triangles arrive at the table: the mushroom dumplings. Encased in a paper-thin wrapper, each holds incredible depth from a combination of shiitake, oyster, and chestnut mushrooms. The dish retains a freshness from a silky shiitake broth that encircles them, whilst slivers of raw chestnut mushroom add brightness and offer a contrast in texture. It’s a standout plate, and we should have ordered a second; sharing this, honestly, is quite the hardship.
Whilst particularly dimly lit and rather clamorous of ambience isn’t my usual favoured dining conditions, the vibe is thoroughly on point for the hotel-adjacent location. Whether a pausing moment to a day of exploring and shopping (I see plenty of fashion house-branded bags as diners arrive) or embarking on a night out, it’s an effervescent aphrodisiac for the hours ahead, whatever they might hold. Yet, despite the surrounding flutter, there's ample margin to enjoy the company you intended in private.
Egg fried rice. Xo sauce, slow cooked egg.
The soft-shell crab joins us, a crisp, golden tempura-wrapped crown atop a crisp ginger-laced salad, laced with a tart, sweet weeping tiger sauce; so too does the unagi maki. Always my favourite on a sushi menu, prepared teriyaki-style, it’s beautifully tender, caramelised and rich, but not at all cloying. Served uramaki-style, enveloped in katsuobushi flakes and drizzled with sauce, it’s a delight in each bite.
As the yellowtail tartare reaches us, its presentation solicits a pause in the proceedings. Within a smooth broth, illuminated with yuzu and packed with umami, lies an island of velvety avocado slices and almost transparent raw yellowtail, topped with fine slices of scallion and delicate caviar. Light as a feather and perfectly harmonious between sweet and savoury, the perfect bite includes Hanaho, or Purple Shiso blossom, with its tender herbal notes.
For those who like to delve into the details and strive to better understand the history behind their plate, each dish might bring an unusual and native element from the menu’s heritage to the table. From shiso, an ancient Japanese herb used in the salsa for the monkfish tail, yuzu and sudachi fruits, the menu shows a sincere appreciation and research into ingredient fusion.
Korean spiced black cod, gochujang, daikon.
Already a fan of the Ramsay scramble method, as fried rice goes, the Gordon touch is golden when it comes to the humble egg. A deep bowl arrives, laden with neatly arranged accoutrements: crispy shallots, XO sauce, shaved scallions and katsuobushi flakes; over seasoned rice stirred through with charred sweetcorn. In a prized position sits a runny, slow-cooked egg, which is mixed into the dish tableside. It's decadent and satisfying, yet lighter than its counterparts, and now no other fried rice will compare.
The final missive to our mains is the Korean spiced black cod, a riot of flavour and exceptionally well-balanced. Another dish that welcomes the use of yuzu brings incredible freshness and aromatics, with citrus notes right at the front of the tongue, offset by the heat of a glossy gochujang sauce. The meat itself is faultlessly tender, prepared by a trio of grilling, smoking, and a final touch with the blowtorch, ensuring it reaches the table glossed and crispy of skin, yet plump, juicy and delicately flaky. Aside lie aromatic kimchi and pickled daikon, a fresh tonic, allowing the underlying flavours to shine before a kick of chilli.
Despite feeling replete, dessert tempts with intricate flavour combinations like the mango-and-sake cheesecake with white chocolate and shiso, or Hokkaido French toast with banana, served with yeast ice cream. Sweet lovers should leave room to share a Lucky Cat, a namesake constructed of chocolate, filled with sobacha tea honeycomb, grilled pear, and miso caramel. But no matter how stuffed you are, the trio of truffles is a must to close the meal, featuring banana, rose, and miso fillings, as is the Yuzocello, a compelling twist on the traditional citrus tipple.
Lucky Cat Negroni.
Cocktail-focused as ever, their Gohan Old Fashioned is more than inviting. With a blend of Hatozaki, Angel’s Envy, Wild Turkey 101 and Laphroig 10-year-old whiskeys, each washed in sushi rice, it’s more than worth the journey alone. Of their signatures, the Lucky Cat Negroni cannot be missed, an interactive affair with a dice roll of options across all elements, with two-hundred-and-sixteen combinations of Gin, Vermouth and Bitters. Fate offers me a trio of Monkey 47, Rinomato aperitivo, and Martini rubino with chilli as a digestif, with an extra layer of warmth to finish our meal.
Overall, it’s a captivating and exciting menu, and a venue I very much look forward to revisiting, whether for a swift or more leisurely cocktail, or simply for multiple rounds of mushroom dumplings betwixt a delve into their seasonal dishes.
