The Best English Wines for a Celebration of Flavour
I’ll admit it – I was woefully late in coming around to British wines.
My first encounter with English vino probably has a lot to answer for in this regard: it involved having a glass of something murky and musty thrust in front of my nose by the over-enthusiastic father of an ex-girlfriend back in the early 2000s, as he (annoyingly, quite rightly) proselytised about how British wines were going to be a big deal in a few short years. I took a sip, it tasted awful, and I remained stubbornly cynical about the viticultural scene of our fair isle for far longer than I should.
Spectacular bottles to be found at Westwell Wines, Kent
What a difference a decade makes. The UK’s wine scene is in tremendous shape, backed by a new generation of passionate, intelligent and ambitious vintners who have taken the time to understand which varieties work best in our chalky and loamy soils and damp, Gulf Stream-inflected climate. The results of their tireless efforts and unwavering faith in their terroir has paid off in ways even early adopters have most likely been surprised by… And yes, I’ve eaten my hat, swallowed my words and tucked into no shortage of humble pie while wandering, utterly delighted, from vineyard to vineyard across Kent, Sussex, the Cotswolds and beyond.
Your New Favourite English Wines and Wineries
Diving into the burgeoning world of English wine has, frankly, been far too enlightening and satisfying to keep to myself, and I’m a dreadful gatekeeper at the best of times. With New Year’s Eve (and the slump of Blue Mondays and relentless drag that is the entire month of January) just around the corner, what better time is there to support local indie producers, indulge the senses and pop a few corks of what are sure to become brand new favourites.
Let’s jump in and take a look at The Last Concierge’s list of English wines that deserve pole position in your wine rack, and the wineries that are worthy of your attention, love, adoration and fervent fanaticism. Cheers!
Ham Street Wines, Field Blend
2023 Field Blend, Ham Street Wines, Kent
Based just 10 minutes from Ashford International, Ham Street Wines is one of Kent’s newest and smallest wineries, yet it’s the one that absolutely stole my heart this year. Established in 2019, the ‘nature forward’ biodynamic and natural wines on offer include husband and wife team Lucie and Jules’ 2023 Field Blend – a copper-pink melange of all the grapes grown on their site (primarily Pinot Noir and Petit Meunier) , and the perfect expression of their very special terroir. Trust me, it’s an absolute delight of crisp red fruit flavours, a subtle creaminess and a surprising minerality.
Little Bit, Westwell Wines, Kent
Fun fact – Westwell Wines was the first English winery I ever schlepped my way over to visit in person, and the one that’s most responsible for my Damascene conversation to the joys of UK wine. Also based in the rolling Kent countryside, Westwell Wines makes the most of their flinty, chalky South Downs soils to produce an impressive array of bottles. Their Pet Nat is very highly regarded indeed, but for me, the real jewel in their shimmering crown is their 2023 ‘Little Bit’ release: a final pressing of Pinot Noir and Petit Meunier, and featuring the juice too tannic and coloured for use in their sparkling wines. Wild, savoury, fruity and herbal, it’s a striking example of expressive, bold and innovative winemaking.
Raymond Blanc de Blancs, Camel Valley
2021 Raymond Blanc de Noir Rosé Sparkling, Camel Valley, Cornwall
There are boutique wineries popping up all over Cornwall nowadays, but Camel Valley can proudly say they were doing their thing before it was cool. A favourite of Rick Stein (surely the quintessential badge of honour for any Cornish food and drink business), their cheekily-named Raymond Blanc de Noir Rosé Sparkling is the ideal example of what this winery does best. Bursting with sharp red berry flavours and no shortage of bright, biting fizz, it’s a celebration wine that’s frankly too good to save for any specific occasion.
Brut Reserve No. 10, Harrow & Hope, Buckinghamshire
People often talk about the links between several English winemaking regions and the hallowed terroirs of Champagne. The area on and around the Chiltern Hills is probably the best example of this equivalence, and it goes some way towards explaining the success of Harrow & Hope winery in Buckinghamshire. Need more proof? Grab yourself a bottle of their Brut Reserve no. 10 – a spectacular sparkler made from that classic Champagne blend of varieties and aged in oak, which ticks every box and exceeds all expectations. Simply superb, and absolutely worth the hype.
Bacchus, Woodchester Valley Vineyard, The Cotswolds
The Cotswolds is definitely among the up-and-coming English wine regions, proving there’s much more to the area than cream teas, Tory ministers and that chap from Blur and his artisan cheeses. Woodchester Valley Vineyard is a stunning example of a Cotswolds winery; founded in 2009 by celebrated and pioneering vintner Fiona Shiner, it’s home to some of the brightest, cleanest and most delicious Bacchus wines we’ve come across thus far. The newest Bacchus vintage is a case in point: packing in English summertime aromas of elderflower and cut grass, it’s the essence of lazy summer afternoons that, in the depths of an English winter, provide no shortage of flavourful escapism.
Louma Chardonnay, Dorset white wine
A small-batch, regenerative winery on the beautiful Jurassic Coast of Dorset, Louma is the solo winemaking project of Jonathan Atkin, who claims he started producing his wines as a hobby and as a way to improve his mental health. His beautiful, bright and sunny wines certainly taste like an effective mood-lifter, and we’re especially fond of the straw-coloured Chardonnay which can be enjoyed either at the Louma Country Hotel in the Dorset Hills or taken home and cherished when you’re in need of a boost.
White Blend, Swanaford Estate, Devon
The slopes of the beautiful Teign Valley of Devon’s wild and windy Dartmoor have always historically been cider country, but the winemakers of Swanaford Estate correctly identified them as a prime English vineyard location back in 2013. Offering a range of sparkling bottles and the quintessential English Bacchus varieties (which are very good indeed), we were most impressed by the highly affordable and utterly delightful white blend – a mix of the Germanic grape variety Siegrrebe with the more familiar Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown on site. Easy drinking with a gorgeous hint of tropical fruit, it’s a wonderful wine to pair with Devonshire seafood.
Madeleine Muscaris, 1276 Wines, Herefordshire
Think English wine is a relatively new phenomenon? Think again. Vines were being grown on this 25-acre Herefordshire Estate back in the 13th century, and that proud heritage has been resurrected for contemporary aficionados by Laurence Cocking and Scott Paterson to stunning effect and with no shortage of ambition and innovation. We were rather seduced by their range of sticky-sweet ice wines, but it’s the sparkling Madeleine Muscaris that takes the crown – soft orchard fruit flavours, a fragrant honeysuckle nose and a playful fizziness… what’s not to love?
Minerva Wines, Bath
2019 Vintage Sparkling, Minerva Wines, Bath
English terroir doesn’t get much more unique or interesting than that enjoyed by the vineyards of Minerva Wines in Bath, where the iconic thermal springs lend a truly fascinating character to the wines produced. Once again, we see England’s capability of growing that Champagne trio – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Petit Meunier – to wonderful effect, resulting in the celebratory 2019 vintage sparkler that’s got collectors and enthusiasts flocking to the West Country. Crafted with love and boasting a vibrant acidity and plenty of complexity, it’s yet another testament to a new generation of vintners making a name for this country’s fascinating oenology scene.
2024 Bacchus, Wraxall Vineyard, Somerset
The grapes grown by Wraxall Vineyard were planted an impressive 50 years ago, showcasing an impressive level of foresight and a dedication that simply cannot be overlooked. It helps that their wines - which include our favourite 2024 Bacchus – are absolutely fantastic, offering up aromas of gooseberry and white florals on the nose and flavours of green apple and mango. Affordable, delicious and a great example of high-quality English winemaking without too many bells and whistles, Wraxall Vineyard more than deserves its place on our list of favourites to keep you going through the darker, colder months.
