I’ve not eaten meat since somewhere around 17 years ago, and I can honestly say, I do not miss it one bit. Whilst bouncing around between pescatarian, vegetarian and then 6 years as a vegan, I found a love of fine dining. I searched high and low for a plant-based tasting menu. It was a problematic metier to find.

My appreciation for Veganuary, therefore, is long-rooted in the experimentation and exploration we see with ingredients and menus at this time, so here I was, bracing myself for a journey mid-weather warning to head into central London. Side note: could we please consider pushing the month of celebration for plant-based cuisine to one where people aren't skint, and freezing?

I arrive at St Ermin’s Hotel in Westminster long after the light has gone. Walking in through a grand courtyard enclosed by a quintessential Victorian facade, it’s filled with warming, twinkling lights adorning the trees and the roof garden above the portico. I file a mental note to return to appreciate it at a time without sideways rain.

The interior is glorious. Stepping across the mosaiced portico floor and into the lobby, Rococo and Art Nouveau plasterwork adorns the walls and ceilings, softly lit by chandeliers that hang above a grand neo-Baroque imperial staircase. A smattering of more contemporary Art Deco notes is seen in the soft furnishing. It’s the kind of historical detail rarely retained, and the building is all the richer for it.

Past a gently flickering fireplace, faced with deep armchairs in low lighting, I take a seat at Caxton Bar; my favourite position when arriving first of my party, to get a lay of the land. I see plenty of English wines, Heppington, Herbert Hall, Louis Pomery… which I am later told are celebrated as part of the building's patriotic heritage, having been a key meeting point in WW2 for the British espionage agencies officed locally. A classic Sazerac melts away the day as my partner and I chit-chat and think about dining.

The restaurant combines regency blue panelling, tactile, chunky wooden tables and a patchwork of fabrics and somehow gets away with it. Its low-slung windows keep you connected to the courtyard outside; overall, it’s a relaxing, welcoming space that maintains a formality of occasion.

*Cauliflower shawarma, a melee of colour*

The Caxton Grill Veganaury menu is an impressive celebration of plant-based dining, regardless of its introduction by a restaurant famed for its butcher's block. As we pick at crusty potato and rosemary bread and an artichoke dip, we regrettably pass over a sweet potato and lentil soup (served with sriracha yoghurt), for an equally seasonal, yet more local, candy beetroot and a cauliflower shawarma to start.

My betanin-themed plate arrives with generous chunks of satine balsamic-glazed beets, with a brightness in colour and acidity from more delicate fragments of orange flesh. A contrast in texture is furnished by puffed smoked rice and cracked hazelnut, with a silky umami-rich kombu and hazelnut jus. Aside, lay a quenelle of beetroot XO; rich, silky, intensely flavourful and earthy, and really quite wonderful.

*King oyster mushroom scallops & marinated butternut steak*

Across the table lies more exciting colour and texture, with Josper grilled cauliflower atop toasted pitta. I can smell the applewood smoke scent rising from the plate even before I constructed a bite, and as a dedicated cauliflower lover, I was clamouring to try the dish. United with a creamy tahini yoghurt, pomegranate jewels, fresh dukka and micro coriander, it’s a very satisfying combination when matched with the tender, charred florets.

The menu includes a curation of vegan wines; our pick was the Can Vallès, XaXaXa Xarel·lo-Chardonnay, from Penedès, Catalonia. Its freshness and vibrant acidity meet the plant-based menu on a level footing, with pleasant apple and pear on the nose and a lingering velveteen texture.

As we round on our mains, so arrives a hearty pile of king oyster mushroom scallops, scored, seared and caramelised, lying atop a creamy mushy pea, and crowned with golden slivers of maple-glazed carrot bacon. Served over a carrot puree, drizzled with a herbaceous oil and alongside a handful of watercress, it’s a rendition of the perfect British chippy, with impeccable balance between richness and salinity.

Sides alongside the generous plates are somewhat of an indulgence; however, the tenderstem broccoli with crispy shallots, garlic and pickled chilli is still calling to me from beyond the table.

Their marinated butternut steak is a nod to their non-herbivorous offerings, served with a piquant smoked garlic chimichurri and creamy corn puree. Another saporous offering from the Josper grill, the tender butternut retains its bite and texture, with a charred caramelised crust, whilst offering a satisfying melt-in-the-mouth feel. Their salted granola is an exciting addition to the sense of the dish, but also gives a savoury finish to the sweet vegetable focus.

*Chocolate sponge with chilli mango salsa*

I can’t lie, dessert has become somewhat of an overlooked element of a meal for me in recent years. I’ve had enough sorbet to endure two lifetimes or more. Whilst already over replete, and considering how a light walk might actually be a pleasant way to finish the evening, I took a glance at the sweets to assess the situation. My eye was caught; hook, line and sinker. Chocolate sponge. Chocolate sponge, filled with caramel ganache, enveloped by bitter chocolate and nuts and served with a chilli mango salsa, a perfectly savoury cream cheese whip and dark chocolate curls. It was a riot of flavour and honestly divine.

All in, it’s exciting and welcome for a venue to focus a dish on vegetable elements, in a time where veganism and available options are waning, especially when done so fabulously. With menus changing seasonally and monthly specials, I very much look forward to returning soon.

Images by Thomas Matthews

Veganuary at Caxton Grill

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