Turks and Caicos: Secret Sands and Solitude
If you are drawn to the idea of deserted white sand beaches, crystal clear waters, and softly rustling palm trees, let me introduce Turks and Caicos.
This British overseas territory lies 4,200 miles from our current chilly weather. Found in the Atlantic Ocean just southeast of the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos are a collection of coral islands stretching only 37 miles. Of its 40 islands and cays, only seven are inhabited. About 46,000 locals live here, though the population rises with tourists, many of whom visit for day cruises.
Otherwise, direct seasonal international flights are available, or a half-hour connection away at the largest and most luxurious island, Providenciales, or Provo — renowned for its stunning Grace Bay Beach, opulent resorts and holiday homes of the famous — with local flights as often as every half hour.
Governor's Beach, Grand Turk
A trip to Grand Turk, home to the capital of the island group, Cockburn, presents a sleepy island dynamic with just 5,000 locals. Whilst daily cruise ships double the population, the island still boasts deserted beaches and pellucid waters across its seven-mile length, which grant silky soft sands, gentle breeze, soft waves and the most relaxing beach swim I have ever had the joy of experiencing. With most day visitors sticking to portside beaches and bars, despite the furthest point from any shoreline being a gentle ten-minute walk, a moment of calm is never far away.
Across the gentle, verdant landscape lay mostly abandoned salinas, man-made shallow stretches of water with canal inlets to harvest and sun-dry water for sea salt. As the smallest inhabited island of the group and the least developed too, its story is of longstanding historical importance within salt production, which only ceased active trade in 1964, after nearly 300 years as the main global exporter.
Grand Turk Lighthouse
Despite only one family-owned producer still operating in Grand Turk, the system remains in place to help with hurricane management. Their 800-strong herd of wild donkeys is a braying reminder, set loose as the salinas slowed production, now grazing freely on the islands. Whilst wild, they might choose to wander up to visitors for a scratch behind the ears as they please, especially at the old lighthouse, a 60-foot cast-iron tower erected in 1852. Situated at the northern tip of Grand Turk, it served the entire Turks & Caicos Islands as their sole lighthouse, and now remains as a historic relic and viewpoint.
For the most off-beat traveller still craving a hotelier experience, the Turks Head Inne on Grand Turk treats guests to newly, yet sensitively, renovated 1830s accommodation. A two-storey (height is restricted due to seasonal weather conditions), enchanting British Colonial beachside homestead with a wrapping verandah, hip roof and wooden shutters takes a gentle grip on a private beach, and remains family-owned to this day. Enjoy fresh home-cooked meals, with seafood caught from your vista, including conch fritters, an island favourite, and absolutely nothing to do but enjoy the view of the west island coastline.
Grand Turk from the air
For adventure-oriented guests, part of that view takes you below sea level, to explore ‘The Wall’ – just 300m from the shore of shallows at 35m, a 1,200m drop in sea level allows for incredible snorkelling and diving, to view turtles, dolphins, eagle and sting rays, a shiver of sharks (reef, nurse, bull, lemon and hammerhead), and seasonal humpback whales in migration, from January to April.
Elsewhere in Turks and Caicos…
Ambergris Cay Private Island, South Caicos
Ambergris Cay Private Island, South Caicos
For indulgent leisure at your own pace, Ambergris Cay more than delivers. Originally established as a private community, their reopening as a remote boutique escape in 2019 offers 1,100 acres of almost completely untouched landscape with 19 intimate, modern and airy beachfront bungalows and 10 villas ranging from 3 to 11 bedrooms. Each with its own private pool quite literally on the beachfront, they are available for rent on an all-inclusive basis, creating an uber-luxe hotel feel in a secluded, romantic setting.
Surrender to à la carte dining and drinks, of course, celebrating local and seasonal ingredients, as their chefs welcome the opportunity to prepare off-menu requests, after a day filled with surfing or snorkelling, complimentary yoga at the fitness pavilion or guided wilderness walks. With a golf cart connection, each of the two on-terra venues is never far away, or enjoy a trip by speed boat to their floating Tiki Bar. But if either feels too much, in-room butler service is but a phone call away.
Saltera, South Caicos
Salterra, South Caicos
For the most minimal lifting of fingers, Salterra offers deliciously spacious rooms and suites, with contemporary muted bare plaster tones meeting cream wood-clad ceilings, marbled bathrooms with his and hers showers, and private balconies overlooking pristine sands and palms of Admiral Cockburn Land & Sea National Park.
Dining is experiential, with regular guest chef takeovers, like Chef Kevin Ramaswamy of Montreal’s iconic Bar George, who will visit from January 29th to February 2nd. Sea-to-table menus and tastings can be found across six on-site venues, such as Brine, inspired by the salinas it overlooks, whilst Regatta boasts a charming classic British Caribbean menu.
For more serene moments, alongside a carefully curated menu of signature treatments, the Spa at Salterra also offers treatments poolside or in-cabana. For active days, guided trail biking or bird watching complements the plethora of water-based options.
Amanyara, Providenciales
Amanyara, Providenciales
Sublime ultra-luxury is synonymous with this stretch of islands, and yet Amanyara brings its own nuance, with an Asian feel to its Caribbean resort. Their airy indoor/outdoor pagoda-style pavilions and three- to six-bedroom villas settle amongst the natural verdure along the coast of the 18,000-acre Northwest Point Marine National Park.
Kayak mangroves, kiteboard the summer breeze, hike the local terra or see it by horseback, connect with the surrounding nature over a half mile of private beachfront. Dine beachside on Mediterranean favourites, or try the Asian menu at The Restaurant for sushi and fragrant curries and other specialities.
As part of the Aman group, unique and outstanding accommodation is key, with each offering its own identity, from a volcanic rock infinity pool, private fitness suite, firepit lounges, outdoor soaking tubs, private stretches of beach or gardens speckled with ponds and waterfalls, just as you would expect from a Michelin Key stay.
