Terrace, Martinhal Lisbon: a Taste of Discovery
I’m forever impressed by Lisbon’s enviable glow-up. In fact, it’s almost hard to imagine - as one wanders through the shabby chic of the capital’s old town or along the elegant promenade facing the Tagus Estuary - that it wasn’t so long ago that Lisbon’s reputation as a tourist destination was mired by a litany of social issues, keeping many travellers at bay several hundred miles to the south.
From the Tagus to the world
Today, Lisbon stands proud as a tourist hotspot favoured by those in search of culture, architectural beauty, history and - perhaps most importantly of all - superb food and wine. From the just-baked mouthful of utter genius that is the iconic pastel de Belem (is there a more satisfying or evocative sweet treat to be found anywhere in Europe? I think not) to glasses of slightly chilled white Porto wine, Lisbon’s flavours have become world-beating. Grilled sardines in the summer accompanied by a gently sparkling vinho verde, barbecued chicken thighs slicked with the original fiery peri-peri chilli oil, and sticky, stodgy and oh-so comforting seafood rice - such things are a gastronome’s dreams made of.
What makes Lisbon’s food scene in 2025 quite so exciting and travel-worthy? It arguably comes down to the city’s newfound understanding that the world isn’t just interested in the rough-and-ready street food the capital is famed for, but the wholehearted embrace of Portugal’s long-standing history of exploration and maritime supremacy - which, of course, brought with it a stunning host of flavours and ingredients to share with those who seek out culinary perfection. From Mozambique to India, Japan and the New World of South America, Portugal’s history and cuisine developed side-by-side to stunning effect.
This is the ethos behind Terrace, the restaurant at the (somewhat) new Martinhal Lisbon Orient within the (somewhat) new Park of Nations, which focuses primarily on those Portuguese-Japanese connections with a swaggering confidence one cannot help but be thrilled by. Set prettily on the banks of the estuary, Terrace is a sleek and spacious restaurant with an open kitchen, where the clatter of knives lets you know that some serious cookery is taking place while you pour your first glass of Douro Valley wine.
Iberian chic at Terrace bar
As if to hammer a particular point home, there’s a weekly sushi and sashimi menu on offer, and mountains of freshly-caught fish are on display. However, it’s the fusion cookery on offer which is the calling card of this particular eatery - and for once, I’m not inwardly shuddering at the idea of an awkward clash between East and West, as in this restaurant, in this city on the Atlantic coast, it all makes perfect sense.
Tuna tataki
We kick off proceedings with a signature starter, the bluefin tuna tataki, which marinates crimson cuts of fatty tuna belly with a glaze made of fennel, orange and pomegranate - a striking mouthful that works as a manifesto and a meeting point between the Tagus and Tokyo. Black cod and miso follows, as does ‘Korean style’ pata negro pork ribs, which buzz on the tongue with fiery chillies and god knows what else happened to be in a marinade I’d happily bathe in. More maritime treats come in the form of saffron-kissed turbot and wild tiger prawns with lemongrass, and a ‘shoots and leaves’ salad ensures we’re getting something green on our plates.
Wines are (thankfully) mostly local and reasonably priced - more than half the red wine menu features the omnipresent Touriga Nacional grape, as it bloody well should - and there’s vinho verde because, frankly, there should always be vinho verde. If there’s another wine style out there quite as refreshing or versatile with food, I’m yet to discover it.
May there always be prawns
The dessert menu didn’t quite appeal to me (for a food writer, I’m irritatingly picky when it comes to sweet dishes), so I was more than happy to indulge in a few glasses of Port. As one might expect and as I hoped, the Port menu was long and inviting, and featured white, red and ruby iterations stretching from three years to twenty years in age. With a glass of Niepoort 10 anos Tawny in my hand and lips still tingling from an abundance of aromatic chillies, all felt right in the world.
Some would argue that Terrace isn’t the best place to get an authentic taste of Portugal, noting the obvious lack of tinned fish and grilled chicken on the menu. Those who know their history - and who recognise the key role that migration, exploration and cultural cross-overs have on culinary identity - would beg to differ.
For me? Like a ship with battered sails pulling into port after sailing the seven seas, I’ll be glad to come back for a true taste of what has always made this city great.
