The Villagers’ Tale: The Chequers and The Crown.
Pubs come in many shapes and forms. Isn't that such a beautiful thing?
My favourite pastime one summer in my late teens was sampling the lineup of fruit wines behind the bar at my favourite rural pub. Dandelion: Very bad. Quince: Very good. At university, a horrifyingly regular evening sustenance was taken at the community pub across the road from my halls of residence, by way of multiple pints of cheap cider and packets of quavers by the multiple squared, as merry students blazed through renditions of ‘Sex On Fire’ on karaoke.
The restaurant, The Chequers Inn, Berrick Salome
Later, I worked at a charming countryside pub and restaurant with a superb garden. I still think about the chef’s exceptional fish menu, where I first tried swordfish, and received my starter education in wine.
Each venue is its own microcosm of ideas, community and distinctive offerings. But now, when it comes to a visit to a public house, more often than not, I simply crave a decent ale, a cosy atmosphere and a hearty meal.
Travelling through the Oxfordshire countryside in the late winter afternoon, we are treated to stunning views across The Chilterns, accompanied by a sunset that tries to describe new colours. We have two destinations for the evening, which will see us dine at The Chequers, Berrick Salome, a newly renovated and reopened country pub in the local Copper Pot Pubs group.
Before we arrive, we take a leisurely detour to its nearby sister venue, The Crown Inn, Benson, to settle after our journey and make the most of their local lodgings. With six unique rooms, it makes a restful base for dining locally or exploring the sprawling countryside around the village of Benson.
Our spacious room makes beautiful use of a definitive British colour scheme of British Racing Green and English mustard, with the tall windows draped in heavy velvet and a feature wall clad in shiplap. Across from an enticingly large and comfortable bed is a roll-top bath, with a separate ensuite and dressing area.
Smoked mackerel, pickled vegetables, tomato salsa
As we make our way downstairs, we are greeted by warm staff and an equally affable vibe from the locals. The Grade II-listed building is a charming 17th-century inn, retaining many original features and a delicate hand in its decoration. A beautiful inglenook fireplace across from the bar becomes our spot to chat about our respective weeks over a couple of pints from local brewery Hook Norton Brewery, whilst we idly watch the flames, where the next morning we return for multiple cups of coffee and a robust breakfast before we take off by foot to explore the local countryside.
Soon enough, our cab arrives (city slickers beware, do not believe the apps, pre-book your travel) to take us to our next destination for dinner, just a country mile away in the village next door, Berrick Salome, The Chequers Inn. Equally quaint and welcoming, the Grade II-listed flintstone pub features a public bar and a separate restaurant in the historic grain-store wing.
Whilst the bar offers a more relaxed setting for refreshments, the restaurant has an elevated feel, with generously spaced tables arranged in the double-height space, set with crisp, minimalist place settings, complemented by historic fittings and beams. Overall, it’s notably elegant whilst duly paying homage to its humble lineage.
Beef short-rib crumpet
With Danny Thomas heading the kitchen (trained under Gordan Ramsey at Michelin-starred restaurant Maze Grill in Mayfair, working under Antony Worrall-Thompson at The Greyhound in Henley-on-Thames, and with a decade as Head Chef at Bristol's Marriott Hotel), our menu is of British à la carte design, observing the agrarian narrative of the area.
We start with a butternut hummus and fresh bread; it’s robust yet perfectly balanced, with a sweet umami, whilst we decide on a Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine to accompany our meal. The citrusy, crisp bouquet and mineral-laden finish are planned to complement the diversity of our vegetable-rich meal to come.
Starters range from the homely to the wonderfully whimsical, with dishes like creamy mushrooms on toast and the beef short-rib crumpet. With tender, shredded meat piled atop a crisp griddle cake, served with pickled shallots, it's a mischievous adaptation of beef tartare, with a British twist and inside knowledge of the chilly weather.
I enjoyed a recently updated dish of Brixham-sourced scallops. Resting on a creamy sweetcorn puree, an accompanying zesty tomato salsa brightens and offers a touch of acid to balance, whilst pea shoots add a peppery tang that perfectly complements the sweet meat.
Berry cheesecake
Our mains arrive with equal delight as we take the supreme of chicken and the butternut risotto. The former, featuring perfectly succulent chicken with a crisp, caramelised skin, served with a deeply savoury potato and white bean cassoulet and tender stem broccoli; the latter, showcasing creamy, sweet squash and faultlessly al-dente rice, dressed with a verdant, saline herb-nut crumb and deep-fried sage leaves.
For lovers of the surf, you could find a pan-roasted seabass with capers and parsley, served with baby prawns and a lemon butter sauce, and chilli pan-fried cabbage; or, from the turf, the 8oz dry-aged rum steak with roasted tomato.
We round off our evening with a hankering for something sweet, and eye up the berry cheesecake. Like other facets of the menu, it's a playful take on a classic. A base of toasted rolled oats joins crushed digestive biscuits, shortbread crumb made in-house and a gluten-free granola. A topping of clotted cream and crème fraîche gives a nostalgic nod to fromage frais, while a tart berry compote adds contrast.
Overall, a cosy evening out could not have been more enjoyable; likewise, our trip away was a departure from the norm in the best way. Yes, it’s definitely worth the journey for city dwellers, and we look forward to seeing what the future holds for the venue.
The Chequers Inn, Berrick Salome, Wallingford OX10 6JN
T. 07902 883360
E. hello@chequersberricksalome.co.uk
Opening Hours:
Tuesday to Thursday: 11 am - 10:30 pm
Friday & Saturday 11 am - 11 pm
Sunday: 12 pm - 8 pm
Dining Hours:
Tuesday to Thursday: 12 - 3 pm and 6 - 9 pm
Friday: 12 - 3 pm and 6 - 9.30 pm
Saturday: 12 - 9.30 pm
Sunday Roasts: 12 - 6 pm
Local accommodation is available at their sister pub, The Crown at Benson.
Images, Izzy Howard.
