Syros is the Best Greek Island You’ve Likely Never Visited

Full disclosure – I’ve never been truly enamoured by the Greek islands in the same way so many of my fellow travel writers seem to be. Maybe it’s my enduringly defensive love of Northern Europe (like the great Jonathan Meades, I’ve often felt out of place for openly preferring the Flemish to the Florentine), or maybe it’s my innate restlessness that makes it a genuine struggle to laze around on a beach.

I actively disliked overhyped Santorini and Mykonos, found myself bored senseless by Paros and – besides the undeniably impressive Apollo Gate and various other classical ruins – struggled to get anywhere near relaxation on Naxos, Crete or Rhodes. I adore ABBA, but don’t want a Mamma Mia summer anytime soon.

Syros, the grandiose gem of the Cyclades

There are, of course, notable exceptions. I was breathlessly wooed by Amorgos’s dramatic cliffs and deeply fascinated by Patmos with all its bizarre history. Above even these wondrous locations, my heart was genuinely, unexpectedly and delightfully stolen by Syros – a bonafide underrated gem of the Cyclades, despite it being a former administrative capital and once the primary sea port of Greece. Indeed, ever since stepping foot on this relatively unknown and underappreciated outcrop, Syros has become my number one recommendation for island escapes in Greece and possibly southern Europe as a whole, and nobody could be more surprised by this than myself. 

The cynic in me would argue that my attraction to the island is due to the fact that, despite its proud heritage as a focal point in Greek history, Syros doesn’t really bear a whole lot of resemblance to its fellow islands. Mykonos is a relatively short ferry ride away, and yet Syros offers tourists no beaches, few of the picture-postcard whitewashed houses topped with vivid blue roofs, and little of the sleepy charm that’s forever associated with this corner of the Mediterranean. 

Sunset at Sta Vaporia

Rather, Syros is undeniably grand. From the oversized port that’s dotted with yachts ranging from the humble to the ridiculous, the capital Ermoupoli looms like a baroque fortress as it staggers up the steep hills in the island’s centre.

The architecture is notably Venetian – Venice and Genoa’s historic hold on the city is not only still felt, but is justifiably celebrated in all its beauty and vertical splendour. There’s an enormous marble-clad piazza just steps from the seafront, where beautiful young things dance to live jazz, sip wine and while away the balmy evenings. The lack of foreign tourists is notable, and it genuinely feels like the island is being closely guarded as a ‘best-kept secret’ of elegantly holidaying Greeks seeking good times away from the hideous crowds of Syros’ neighbours in the Cyclades. How could I possibly not be impressed? 

A 15-minute wander up from where my yacht had laid anchor (I was coming to the end of a spectacular Aegean tour with SeaCloud – arguably the most beautiful sailing yacht company in the world) and along some satisfyingly wiggly streets, I came across Sta Vaporia; a beautifully elegant and undeniably romantic bar set on a hilltop overlooking the sparkling sea as the sun began its descent. It’s a stunning spot in which to refresh one’s senses with local wines and a plethora of freshly-made snacks. Roasted tomatoes, superb feta drizzled with vibrant olive oil and freshly-made bread were brought by equally alluring members of staff, keen to discuss the wine list and make recommendations including the crisp Assyrtiko blends and the native Serifiotiko. It’s the kind of place I’d happily return to, evening after evening, in order to delight my taste buds and gaze over the incredible views. 

From my vantage point at Sta Vaporia, I could look down the cliffside to Asteria beach – another of Ermoupoli’s hidden gems. As mentioned, there are no real beaches on Syros; the volcanic forces that gave rise to the island and a host of other geological excuses ensured that there’s nowhere for sand to gather. However, Asteria beach compensates for this fact with a pleasing nonchalance; it’s simply a pair of huge concrete slabs jutting into the sea which allow for sunbathing, swimming and posing. My plans for the following morning formed within seconds, and I finished my wine as slowly as I could before ordering the remainder of the bottle to be brought to my table. 

No beach? No problem.

Now, those who know me understand that I’m not a sunbather. It’s not that I burn or have any particular sensitivity to the sun – I just find it a rather boring way to spend my time when there’s usually so much to explore. Asteria beach’s lack of soft sand suited me remarkably well. While there was more than a scattering of bronzed bodies lying supine around me (make no mistake, I understand that most people who come to Greek islands absolutely wish to spend some time sunbathing), this is primarily a swimming platform. From the edge of the ‘beach’, one can dive into the bay’s calm blue waters and confidently swim for some distance, before heading back to terra firma to dry off, warm up and sip at a bottle or two of the deliciously refreshing local Syra beer. 

From Asteria, one can leisurely walk up the steps and back into the hustle and bustle of the city centre, and find themselves once again immediately enveloped by the island’s elegant cultural offerings. And what offerings! Ermoupoli peerlessly blends neoclassical architecture with a distinctly laid-back charm; from the Rococo glamour of the (almost ridiculously large, considering the island’s size) Apollo theatre to the aforementioned marble Miaouli Square, the consistency of Syros’ visual culture is a wonder to behold. 

No visit to the city would be complete without popping into The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – a significant Orthodox church which spectacularly leans into the baroque idiom of the island. It’s home to an El Greco painting of the Virgin from 1562; a real treat for art history buffs and those looking to scratch beneath the skin of Ermoupoli’s various treasures. 

Many will tell you that it’s difficult to eat badly on the Greek islands. I’ll risk journalistic and jingoistic crucifixion by suggesting that this really isn’t the case – every island I’ve been on has more than its fair share of tourist trap restaurants, grim-looking kebab shops and places offering up identi-kit plates of pre-packaged disappointment. Syros, once again, proves to be something of an exception; at least in the capital, there are plenty of fantastic spots in which to dine, and it doesn’t seem particularly difficult to sniff them out. 

Aristide Restaurant’s Roof Terrace

The Aristide restaurant at the beautiful Aristide Hotel – which offers a rooftop dining experience overlooking the grandiose church of St. Nicholas – is one worth stopping by for an evening. Housed in a restored neoclassical mansion, the plates offered at this splendid restaurant gained a mention in the 2025 Michelin Guide. The slow-braised octopus and prawn ‘sausage’ (served with the ever-present and more-than-welcome fava beans) do more than justify its inclusion in every gastronaut’s bible, and the cocktail list ensures good times are enjoyed by all who grace its beautifully-appointed tables. 

Also housed in a similar mansion and also boasting a place in the 2025 Michelin Guide is Elexis at the newly-opened Argini Hotel. Although primarily offering superior cuts of steak, it would be amiss of me not to mention the restaurant’s fabulous fish dishes – catch of the day was a golden grouper served with artichoke, and offered an unforgettable taste of the Mediterranean by way of some seriously impressive cookery. Paired with a bottle of local white wine, once more Syros proved itself as a hidden gem well worth the trip.

My visit to Syros may have been fleeting – a mere 48 hours on a SeaCloud cruise that revealed a plethora of islands that, thankfully, haven’t yet been discovered by cut-price airlines and the amassed hordes of tourists chipping away at so many of Greece’s treasures. However, those two days on Syros succeeded in convincing me that this part of the world still has so much to offer, even to a cynic like myself. 

SeaCloud cruises can be booked here.