Innsbruck: A Wintry Tale
There are many approaches one can take to the winter getaway, for those eager to take full advantage of the heft of bank holidays, oven-ready excuses to skip work, and the sheer, overwhelming need to get away during the darkest time of year.
One could, quite understandably, set one’s sights for the south: to revel in warmer climes, to sun the skin beneath wavering palms and simply deny the existence of the plummeting temperatures for a week or so. One could also aim for the opposite, and lean spectacularly into the delights that winter - and all its heart-warming festivities - bring in such glorious abundance.
Medieval charm abounds at the foothills of the Alps
For those leaning towards the latter, few city breaks hit the spot quite as successfully as Innsbruck. Austria’s alpine capital is no stranger to drawing crowd. Indeed, a brief saunter down its higgledy-piggledy medieval streets are a deeply satisfying reminder that this urban centre, sitting prettily along a picture-perfect mountain valley and strategically at the crossing point of the river Inn, has been doing its thing for a thousand years.
As far as beautifully-preserved historic centres go, Innsbruck strikes gold again and again. Wonky stone houses? Check. Eccentric imperial design flourishes? Check. The occasional palace, hidden behind curling alleyways? Why, of course. Bedecked in the snows of December, it’s impossible not to be swept away by the sheer romance of it all, and then happily reminded that - despite all the fairytale beauty of the place - it’s also a proper centre of civilisation, and not just a Disney-fied alpine getaway like so many of its neighbouring towns and tourist traps.
Watch out, Krampus about
Therein lies the wonder of Innsbuck, and the veritable ‘best of both worlds’ we travel writers and keen sojourners consistently attempt to seek out. Innsbruck really is the kind of place you can see yourself living quite happily; there are Grimm-esque sloping snow-coated rooftops, carved wooden statues of giants and trolls here and there, and the ever-present majesty of the Austrian Alps looming over the palace chimneys. And yet, and yet… there are also excellent restaurants, quality hotels, stylish wine bars, fully-stocked supermarkets, pharmacies and all the rest, serving the everyday people who enjoy the everyday existence of urbane valley living.
For the Christmastime traveller, Innsbruck lives up to its winter wonderland reputation. Simply put, the Austrians know how to mark the season in style. The earlier weeks of December see the launch of a gorgeous Christmas market - try a steaming mug of gluhwein and a takeaway plate of unctuous cheesy spaetzle, before wandering around the stalls which put our UK efforts to grindingly embarrassing shame. Those lucky enough to wander into town around St. Nicholas’ Day (6th of December) may catch sight of the uproarious, frankly terrifying Krampus; a pre-christian tradition which seems to involve little more than dressing up in impressively grotesque carved masks and furs, and stomping through the streets scaring children into submission. It’s brilliantly bonkers.
Each evening at six, a wind sextet gathers at the iconic ‘golden roof’ - a stunning imperial balcony that signals the centre of the city to play Austrian Christmas classics. Aforementioned gluhwein in hand, it’s a wonderful way to spend half an hour and get in the mood for more exploring. More contemporary attractions include a garden of lights, where fairytale characters are picked out in neon colours to discover as you meander through the city park, and a neofuturist Christmas tree designed by Swarovski at the heart of the ‘children’s market’ by the river.
The bizarre-but-brilliant Swarovski Kristalwelt
For those looking to up their sparkle quota while in this corner of Austria, a day trip to the nearby Swarovski Kristalwelt is highly recommended. Whether you see the iconic Austrian design house as a new expression of luxury or the last word in kitsch is fairly irreverent - the ‘Crystal World’ experience is one that would be churlish to miss. Visitors enter into a giant’s cave, where artworks by Warhol and Yves Klein usher you through to room after room of utterly absurd, immersive art installations. They veer from the ridiculous (a suspended model of Elton John, completely bedecked in glittering crystals, plays an equally iridescent piano) to more subtle exhibitions exploring the nature of light and colour. It’s almost anti-art in its ostentation; this is creativity entirely dictated by the medium rather than the meaning, but by god, it’s good fun.
More authentic treasures can be found in the nearby Ambras Castle, where the Habsburg history of the Austria-Hungarian (and Holy Roman) empire is laid out in impressive fashion. From ancestral portrait galleries to armory rooms, incredible stucco decoration and manicured grounds filled with wandering peacocks, it would be a stylish break from the hustle and bustle of the city… were Innsbruck a city where hustle and bustle caused any particular stress. Even greater escapism can be found by taking the cable cars to the aptly-named ‘Top of Innsbruck’, a panoramic spot up the mountains where a beer, a fantastic soup and a (what else?) apple strudel can be enjoyed amid breathtaking views. To be so close and yet seemingly so far from city life never felt so achievable, nor so satisfying.
And so, our minds turn to the other great appeal of alpine trips where skiing isn’t the focus: the food. Even when not in the throes of winter, I’ve always loved the way this corner of Europe is driven by a compulsion to feed its guests well, and Innsbruck does a sterling job of satisfying the senses. You’re never far from a good apple strudel in the city centre, but a wedge of the fruit-packed flaky pastry from Strudel Cafe Kroll never fails to hit the spot, especially alongside a generous jug of what the locals refer to as vanilla sauce, but which we all know and celebrate as good ol’ English custard.
A plethora of Alpine gastronomic treasures
Head on to the beautiful medieval loft dining room at Weißes Rössl, where oversized Weiner schnitzel and Cordon Bleu (its frankified, cheese-stuffed cousin) comes with picked cabbage salad and deliciously bright, zippy Gruner Veltliner wines. You’ll also find culinary delights at the hunting lodge-esque restaurant of Zum Wilden Mann - a 10-minute taxi ride up a winding hill, where lamb’s liver, spaetzle, shredded pancake soup (an absolute must-have dish on a cold day) and delightful semifreddo desserts guarantee satisfaction.
For those - quite rightly - enthused by the incredible viticultural history and diversity of Austria, there’s much to enjoy in Innsbruck, where wine bars make fine use of the ancient buildings that line its streets. A wine tasting evening at Weinhaus Tyrol is everything a good tasting should be: gorgeously relaxed, brilliantly hosted and informative, and packed to the gills with bottle after bottle of Austria’s finest produce. I’ve been lucky enough to attend countless tastings in my time, and I have to admit this was right up there with my favourites.
What else is there to say? From towering ski jumps to sensory pleasures, no shortage of sparkle and the gentle hum of Christmas tunes, this small Austrian city continues to punch well above its weight as an enviable escape… right into the heart of all the festive feels.
