The View, Agadir
If you’re the kind of individual who feels a winter escape to snow-filled valleys, frozen lakes and locales where heading outside requires at least four layers of insulated thermal wear is no escape at all… well, I feel you.
There’s something about a British winter, perhaps even more so in the inescapable day-glo run-up to Christmas, that unleashes an almost irresistible pull to the south within me. The knowledge that there will be at least three more months (because as we all know, March is the month that promises so much yet delivers so little) of horizon-to-horizon grey and the kind of cold damp that penetrates the bones and seizes the joints is one that calls for a real getaway. A chance to catch some rays, indulge the senses without the need for a wooly hat, and hide from Noddy Holder’s incessant bellowing about what time of year it is.
Agadir beach
The good news? You don’t have to travel far or hop onto a long-haul flight to scratch this particular itch. Last year, my wife and I successfully warmed our skin in the south of Spain, and this year we decided to head a few hundred miles further southwest to Morocco. The warm winds of the Sahara brought the mercury to a perfectly balmy mid-twenties in temperature, with it even heading up to 28C at the end of December in Agadir. We were sold.
Agadir is a curious city. The ancient Berber capital it may once have been, but there’s little sign of that ancestral heritage today. This is, rather tragically, due to a devastating earthquake which crumbled the original stone buildings in the mid-20th century and led to tens of thousands of fatalities, leading city planners to remodel Agadir in what probably looked at the time to be a future-forward conurbation. The results were, in hindsight, truly nothing to write home about - Agadir as an urban centre today is pretty uninspiring, with little to remind you of its proud history and former glories.
The view from The View
While there’s disappointment in this regard, Agadir is very successfully positioning itself as a tourist hotspot for those seeking sun, sand and excursions outside of the city… and all three of those it has by the fez-load. The long stretches of pristine sandy beaches provide mile after mile of gorgeous Atlantic coastline, well-kempt and idyllic to walk along at any time of day. Indeed, our evening strolls along this impressive promenade were one of the trip’s highlights; in the evening, local groups of young men gather with ouds and other instruments to serenade the tourists and residents, creating an excitingly exotic hubbub against the backdrop of sparkling seas. Whether seeking relaxation on the sand (and the beach is certainly long and wide enough to ensure ample space for absolutely everybody) or a day trip to the dunes, a camel ride to the souk or an excursion to Marrakesh just two hour’s drive away, Agadir provides an impressive home base from which to get a real taste of Moroccan hospitality.
Regarding hospitality, the city is making great strides in updating its luxury hotel game, too. The View is the latest of Agadir’s forays into this space - a mid-sized five-star hotel situated pleasantly a few short metres from the beach, and home to a plethora of restaurants, spa facilities, suites and relaxation spaces. Purpose-built for a blissful escape, the team at The View have done a fantastic job of laying the blueprint for Agadir’s blossoming tourism industry; it’s a sweet spot between all the necessary modern hospitality features and Moroccan authenticity. The suites are spacious and feature a broad balcony with those all-important sea views, and guests can enjoy an evening at the excellent Mima’s restaurant, which serves fabulous Moroccan dishes accompanied by local musicians doing their thing on the stage. Try the Harira soup, the pastilla of blue lobster, and fish tagine - all burst with the rich, balanced spices and fresh ingredients this part of the world is renowned for.
Moroccan mint tea with the obligatory paisley shirt
The View also features an Italian-inspired restaurant, a beach bar for freshly-made light bites and drinks, and a truly impressive breakfast buffet which showcases the marriage of traditional Moroccan and imperial French cuisine. The fact you can enjoy a perfectly-crafted croissant alongside a Moroccan soup for breakfast, followed by a trip or three to the in-house fromagerie is (as those who know me will attest) a great start to any day.
As night falls, guests can either wander into town to uncover a plethora of tea bars and nightclubs, or remain in situ to enjoy The View’s own offerings - some of which are absolutely punching above their weight. The hotel’s cocktail bar is probably the most attractive space on the site. The long shadow of Casablanca’s Hollywood glamour is felt in full force, and the soft lighting and banquettes of The Cedar room is somewhere I’d happily spend several hours, especially considering the quality and creativity of the signature cocktails. Adjoined to the hotel is Buddha Bar Agadir, the latest in the renowned chain’s openings and every bit as ridiculous, glamorous and over-the-top as one would expect from this global tour de force. A sushi platter arrives with more dry ice than a Sisters of Mercy concert (never a bad thing for an eternally melodramatic former goth like myself), and alongside a live jazz singer, a djembe drummer and a muscular young chap hoisting himself into the air on ribbons, it provides a night to truly remember.
Are there things requiring a little more attention to detail at The View? Frankly, yes - the operation isn’t quite yet the smooth-running machine it will surely become in the coming seasons. Service is a little on the slow side, and small quirks - no hair conditioner but two types of shampoo? - are easy fixes that will surely manifest soon enough.
More dry ice than a Sisters of Mercy concert
One aspect of The View’s offering which simply couldn’t be improved upon is the spa service, namely the traditional Moroccan Hammam - a bonafide must-try when in the country. For the uninitiated, the hammam is an age-old wellness ritual which takes the concept of the steam room to its logical conclusion. Visitors lie on a steam-warmed marble worktop, and are repeatedly washed, scrubbed, oiled, scrubbed, cleansed, scrubbed and then scrubbed some more, almost to the point of actual pain. Toxins are expelled. Nerves are awakened. Bloodflow is uninhibited, skin rejuvenated, chakras aligned etc etc. It’s an hour of the utmost bodily attention, and one that leaves you genuinely woozy and enlivened from head to toe. Absolutely recommended, and worthy of the trip in itself.
The View’s spa also offers a pleasing gamut of other treatments, ranging from facials to full-body massages, all delivered with an emphasis on holistic care and use of local natural ingredients (namely the famed argan oil).
All in all, Agadir offers a pleasant and highly relaxing winter escape, ticking all the right boxes when it comes to weather, access to the ocean and its myriad delights, and great food and services delivered with a real affection for the old ways. The city itself is still very much a work in progress - you can hardly move for building sites, regeneration projects, ambitious new centres of culture, ad infinitum - but there’s something deeply satisfying about checking out a location while it’s still on its way up.
Agadir? Went there before it was cool, mate.
