Northumberland: Castles, Kippers and Coastal Crossings

The fact that Northumberland – that ancient, sprawling and culturally significant border county in England’s wild and windy northeastern reaches – remains considered a hidden gem is both confusing and cause for celebration. 

It likely has a lot to do with the fact it’s not within a two-and-a-half-hour drive from London. However, I’d like to think it has something to do with it being a slightly confrontational county; after all, this is a land of jagged cliffs, of scattered islands littered with shipwrecks and streaked with centuries of accumulated guano, of coastal towns reeking of smoked fish, of fortresses, vikings and a brickie named Hadrian’s attempt at taking back control of his borders. 

Bamburgh Castle and Beach, Northumberland

Yes, it’s beautiful… but it’s a place that makes you work for all that spectacle, matching satisfaction with the number of blisters gathered on your feet. For those willing to put the effort in, Northumberland is arguably one of the UK’s most rewarding places to explore. 

A Barefoot Crossing to Holy Island

My long weekend in the borders began, as no shortage of great adventures do, with a pilgrimage. The Holy Island of Lindisfarne can be reached via car or bus at certain times of day (depending on the comings and goings of the North Sea tide), but to truly experience Holy Island, I’d strongly recommend eschewing the tarmac completely and taking the Pilgrim’s Way – a 90 minute barefoot walk across the firm sands of the causeway, guided by a sparse line of wooden posts. 

Lindisfarne, in all its glory

Yes, it can be cold and windy, but there remains an eerie, meditative quietude to walking across a shifting sea bed while the tide allows. With the cold, squelching mud between your toes and the North Sea retreating just out of sight, it is impossible not to channel the sixth-century monks who first mapped this landscape, especially as the weather-beaten silhouette of Lindisfarne Priory rises on the horizon. 

There’s also excellent coffee and cake at your destination (courtesy of the aptly named Pilgrim’s Coffee) and free samples of locally-made Lindisfarne Mead at the island’s winery, so there’s no need to pack your horsehair shirt or flagellate too enthusiastically. 

Embracing Eccentricity and Spirits at Chillingham Castle

The imposing fortress of Chillingham Castle

Northumberland is not a county with a shortage of charming places to stay. In fact, every village and town has a plethora of guesthouses and B&Bs to choose from, and there are a smattering of luxury hotels and experiential stays (we’re now fully in the grip of bothies and shepherd’s huts dominating the weekend rural break scene) to choose from. For this particular weekend in the north, however, I was after somewhere a little more leftfield in which to lay my head for the night. 

A winding and tree-lined drive inland from the coast, you’ll discover the formidable, battle-scarred walls of Chillingham Castle. Originally a monastery and fortified in 1344 (and boasting a spectacularly bloody history), it now features eight self-catering apartments for those seeking to soak up the centuries, all while being able to brag about spending the night in what is often claimed as the UK’s most haunted building. 

Let me be clear from the outset: Chillingham does not do predictable, sanitised luxury. Not only does it wear its supposed record-breaking number of departed residents with pride (there was a paranormal investigation underway during my stay, although I thankfully wasn’t awoken by screaming former Blue Peter presenters at any point in the night), it’s a decidedly odd, unapologetically quirky fortress that that feels frozen in a state of slightly chaotic aristocratic history. The castle’s emblem is a giant golden bat, there’s a herd of prehistoric wild cattle on the grounds, and there’s an iron maiden in the basement. 

I’ve written extensively about my frustration regarding modern hotels all feeling the same and lacking storytelling. Well, Chillingham piles on the antidote to that complaint by the imperial tonne. It is, frankly, a fascinating retreat for those seeking a slightly spooky, character-rich base from which to explore the stunning local landscape, and if that’s what you’re after, you’re sure to be delighted by what you uncover.

The Lookout Apartment, Chillingham

My residence for the night was the Lookout Apartment; a pretty, spacious collection of bedrooms, living room and kitchen perched high within the castle’s ancient framework atop a flight of fifty narrow, uneven and winding stairs. From an accessibility and spec standpoint, it is certainly not for everyone, but it represents a memorable choice for those looking to fully embrace the castle’s numerous quirks, of which there are many. At its best, it thoroughly succeeds in striking a balance between medieval charm and cosy seclusion, and the apartment offers sweeping views over the estate, manicured gardens and the distant Cheviot Hills. 

Chillingham itself is a place of delightful contradictions. By day, you can wander past rooms packed with eclectic antiques, bizarre taxidermy and formidable weaponry. By night, as the ancient stone walls cool, the true atmosphere sets in. Whether it was the wind whistling through the battlements or the castle’s legendary resident spirits making themselves known, sleeping here is a spine-tingling immersion into Northumberland’s turbulent past, albeit one with high quality duvets and a smart TV in the corner.

It is grand, it is slightly mad. It is certainly an unforgettable way to spend a night or two.

The Finest Sandwich in the Kingdom

The following morning called for a coastal pilgrimage of a different kind; one which involved a drive down to the picturesque fishing village of Craster. Famed for its rugged harbour and the rich aroma of oak smoke drifting through the sea air, Craster is the undisputed spiritual home of the British kipper.

Where centuries of craftsmanship comes in a bun

No visit here is complete without a stop at Piper’s Pitch – a place I’ve proudly listed as one of the UK’s unmissable spots for seafood lovers, and which, despite being a trailer in a car park, punches heavily above its weight when it comes to quality and craftsmanship. This beloved local fixture serves up what I am prepared to argue is the finest sandwich in the country, a legendary kipper roll sourced straight from the village's ancient smokehouses. 

Yes, I’m going to wax lyrical about a notoriously pungent smoked fish, but the combination of flaked, intensely smoky, buttery flesh served warm in a soft bun is a masterclass in culinary simplicity. There’s real history in every bite, and it’s not by coincidence that this town has built a powerful reputation on the back of this time-honoured local speciality. 

Ultimately, a weekend in this corner of the world is a reminder that the best travel experiences cannot be rushed, over-scheduled or sanitised. They are found when we adapt to the rhythm of the tides, embrace the eccentricities of history and savour the simplest local delicacies… and for me, that’s what real luxury is and should be all about. 

Rooms at Chillingham Castle can be booked via Host Unusual, offering a selection of the most quirky accommodation and unique places to stay UK and worldwide.