The Bristol Hotel: A Must-Stay in England’s Most Vibrant City

A good hotel should always be something of a surprise. The Bristol Hotel - situated pristinely on the West Country capital’s historic dock and within spitting distance of many of the city’s most iconic sights and must-visit locales - provides pleasant surprises that just keep coming. 

I must have walked past The Bristol’s unassuming main entrance a thousand times without giving it much thought. After all, it would be easy to assume the property is yet another four-star stopover for businesspeople moving through the city, hosting the occasional conference or wedding without much need to go above and beyond in terms of quality or distinction. However, an overnight stay during a particularly icy stretch of November unveiled a litany of fantastic features, and I’m delighted to say that The Bristol will become one of my most recommended locations for those spending time in this wonderful corner of the world. 

Night falls in Bristol

Now part of the prestigious Doyle Collection (which includes The Bloomsbury in London, The Dupont Circle in Washington DC and The Westbury in Dublin), The Bristol has considerably levelled up its pulling power in recent years. The imposing thud of 60s brutalist architecture, complete with a distinctive zig-zag concrete stack in front of the multistorey car park just next door, gives way to a decidedly chic interior; one which is prettily and tastefully decked out for the festive season upon my arrival. A sweeping, wide staircase reveals a spacious seating area and vintage-inspired bar, which in turn reveals the newly-developed restaurant and breakfast setting which boasts floor-to-ceiling windows providing a view of the harbourside - the beating heart of Bristol’s cultural quarter. 

Urbane comforts at The Bristol

My room was on the sixth floor and provided an even more spectacular vista of the city. Seriously, I’ve spent a considerable chunk of my life in Bristol, and this view - which included a full panorama of the cathedral, docks and the giddy heights of genteel Clifton - still managed to hit those breathtaking high notes. A very comfortable queen-sized bed, a bathtub, broad desk from which to type my notes and an array of conveniences and treats added to the notion that this was right at the upper echelons of four-star hotel quality. I’m more than happy to say I’ve stayed in five-star hotels that offer considerably less, and pay far less attention to the finer details that can make all the difference. 

Now, back to the aforementioned glass-fronted restaurant.

The River Grille is a point of real pride for The Bristol, and not without good reason. Bristol as a city flies its foodie flag high - a five-minute walk from the hotel’s front door will lead you to the revelatory Wapping Wharf development, where Michelin-baiting eateries including Lapin, Root and Ragu have helped redefine the city as a committed gastronaut’s stomping ground  - and The Bristol’s in-house restaurant has no excuse not to match local offerings in terms of quality and finesse. Thankfully, it does a sterling job of holding its own amid such competition, and not just because, as the sun dips below the horizon and the city lights twinkle into action, it’s an absolutely lovely place in which to while away the hours. 

Proceedings kick off very well indeed. A hefty and well-selected list of wines and local beers provide more than adequate lubrication, and starters of satisfyingly funky goat’s cheese quenelles on a bed of earthy-sweet beetroot salsa and pan-fried scallops with a silky squash puree demonstrate a commitment to flavour that cannot be denied. Incidentally, scallops are something of a go-to ‘test’ dish for many restaurant critics such as myself. Why? Because it’s abundantly obvious when they’re not fresh and they’re famously easy to overcook. The River Grille passed this test comfortably - they were lush (as we say in these parts) and the squash-seafood pairing is something I’ll happily attempt to replicate at home. 

Bathed in light, The River Grille restaurant

As is correct and proper against such a maritime setting, there was a real emphasis on fish dishes on offer. It’s refreshing to see ‘catch of the day’ on urbane restaurant menus once again, and today’s catch was a massive sea bream - a veritable king of the British fish chef’s kitchen - cooked beautifully to showcase that pearlescent flesh and those subtle, aromatic flavours. Whole sea bass was also available, as was the ever-present fish and chips (made with haddock, the serious fish and chips lover’s preferred choice over cod) which featured a satisfyingly crispy batter and a comforting bed of crushed buttery peas. As this is technically a grill restaurant  - with or without the ‘e’ at the end - there were steaks on offer, as well as an array of vegetarian and vegan options for those eschewing meat.

Casablanca vibes at Rick’s, photo by Josh Campbell

The dessert menu offered up a gorgeously sticky apple tarte tatin amongst several chocolatey delights. However, my cravings tend to err on the savoury side, and I opted for a trio of cheeses - a fantastically honking and grassy goat’s cheese, a Bath blue and a pokey local cheddar, each of which came in a generous portion with grapes, crackers and fig chutney that was perfectly suited for sharing.

I was, it’s fair to say, a very happy man indeed. 

Next door to the River Grille is the newest addition to The Bristol’s offering: Rick’s Bar, a stunningly-realised space in which clear efforts have been made to emulate a sort of classic Casablanca vibe, which is no bad thing whatsoever. Huge wicker light fittings cover the ceiling, the ambience is dusky and embracing, the beats are deep and groovy and - thrillingly - there was a fire to cosy up next to. Keeping on theme, the cocktail list features signature creations named after various silver screen releases, and a winter cocktail selection had been prepared for those seeking to warm themselves from the inside out. Tempted as I was by the Winter Solstice (spiced rum, orange sherbert, lime and orgeat), I noticed the Pine Tree Spritz featured a slug of D.O.M Benedictine… and I can rarely resist the herbaceous, almost medicinal thwack of such alpine liqueurs. 

It was good. I’ll be back. 

The Bristol has clearly thrived under the guidance and renewed energy instilled by association with the Doyle Collection, and has a serious role to play in Bristol’s growing reputation as a city with real character and a ferocious dedication to quality. Very well priced for what’s on offer (rooms begin at £120 per night, an absolute steal for high-end city centre accommodation) and providing a pitch-perfect balance of the grandiose, stylish and comforting, it’s the ideal place to base a weekend visit to a city that never ceases to impress. 

Rooms at The Bristol can be booked here