When I told friends and family I’d be spending a chunk of late October in Yerevan, Armenia, the most common response was something along the lines of “where exactly is that, again?” It’s fair to say that, for most Brits, Yerevan is some way off the typical tourist trail - sandwiched between Georgia, Turkey and Iran amid the peaks and valleys of the Caucasus, the former Soviet nation is still best known by the masses for little more than eccentric ethno-pop Eurovision entries. This appears to be changing, and not without good reason.

Anyone who has been paying attention to the world of fine wines and gastronomy over the past few years will be aware that, despite its former obscurity, the whole Caucasian region is currently on a rapid ascendence. Armenia and Georgia are arguably the cradle of winemaking civilisation (the first evidence of viticulture in the region stretches back an astounding 12,000 years) and the current output - mainly based around Saperavi red wines, bone dry whites and stunningly funky orange wines - is rightfully taking the world by storm.

With this in mind, and a real fondness for the food of this part of the world, I knew my travels would eventually lead me to Yerevan.

First impressions upon landing at Zvartnots Airport (a convenient 90 minute hop from Istanbul, still very much the crossroads between Europe and Asia Minor, as it has been since the dawn of time itself) were beyond my expectations. The Soviet and Persian influences abound in Yerevan and result in an elegant, imposing combination - vast and stylish brutalism in the form of various monuments, the broad avenues and boulevards, and the higgledy-piggledy labyrinthine streets are all present and correct. However, it comes together to form an impressive elegance and cohesion, helped by the fact that (like so many post-Soviet conurbations) the streets are flawlessly clean and maintained with a clear sense of pride and renewed appearance on the world stage.

Visitors have a glut of hotels and hostelries to choose from. The Grand Hotel Yerevan, situated in the city centre and within walking distance of all major attractions, is a brilliantly pillared pink-stone hulk of a building. The same could be said of Hotel Alexander (of the Luxury Collection group) that perfectly combines traditional Armenian aesthetics with a thoroughly contemporary approach to high-end hospitality. Low budget options are also available, although one of Yerevan’s key selling points is its relative affordability, meaning there’s truly something for everybody in the central part of town from which to enjoy the city’s delights.

And what delights there are to uncover, especially for those seeking to make the most of their taste buds during their time in the city. I was massively impressed by the coffee culture that permeates each corner of the capital; being so close to Turkey, coffee is unsurprisingly a seriously important part of daily life and the local culture - head on down to the sophisticated and somewhat hipster-ish NöNö on Buzand Street (right behind the stunning Square of the Republic, the beating heart of Yerevan’s architectural pomp) for a spectacular flat white and a pastry, and you’ll see exactly what I mean. Seriously - it was one of the best coffees I’ve ever had, and I’ve had more than my fair share.

As mentioned, you’re never far from great wine in Yerevan, and the locals are justifiably proud of their output that has survived countless wars, occupations and devastating cultural shifts. Treasures were uncovered at the achingly cool 13:20 bar complex (conveniently located opposite NöNö), which is accessed through a shabby courtyard and reveals a selection of four individual-but-connected businesses showcasing some of the best the city has to offer. 13:20 - named after a broken railway clock that hangs above the entrance, telling the right time twice per day - was set up to be something akin to Budapest’s renowned ‘ruin pubs’, essentially occupying an unloved space and making it into something really quite special. There’s an anarcho-punk vibe to the place - you feel a little bit like you’re sitting in someone’s dilapidated home - and the goods on offer are equal parts comforting and thrilling.

I was offered an orange wine with an oh-so-Armenian backstory of war and displacement, which had been elevated to a quaffable symbol of resistance and determination. I’m not usually a fan of ‘natural wines’, simply because I’ve had too many that taste like rot. This one had plenty of depth and funk to it, but was undeniably delicious. Perhaps it’s high time I reassess my prejudices, and join the changing tides of the oenological realm. The saperavi was worth the hype, the white areni and hakhtanak wines provided a crisp and refreshing bite that’s never unwelcome.

Elsewhere in 13:20, you can find a distillates bar that celebrates the spirit-making culture of the country - there are firewaters and chachas aplenty, and no visit to Yerevan would be complete without a glass of Konyak. Armenian cognac has a fascinating history I won’t go into in this article, but its quality and distinction not only means it’s the only iteration outside of the Cognac region of France allowed to bear the name (seriously, look it up - it’s a great story). It’s every bit as good as one might expect of a drink so enjoyed by notorious booze hound Winston Churchill, that he apparently got through 80 bottles of the stuff each year.

I’ve long maintained that there are parts of the world where it’s almost impossible to eat badly. Alongside Copenhagen, Thailand and Japan, I’d gladly add Armenia and Georgia - this is a corner of the globe where flavours never shy from impact, and where the impulse to feed is a strong one indeed. Syrovana - a ‘house of cheese’ run by the esteemed Novikov restaurant group - delivers fantastic platters of local dairy products alongside an impressive wine list and one of the best honey cakes I’ve ever eaten, and for the full-throated Armenian dining experience, head to Caucasus Tavern. This 24-hour eatery serves up heaving plates of stunningly fresh Caucasian salads (which abound in fresh herbs, rich and juicy tomatoes and walnuts), more cheese, local meat specialties and all kinds of bread-based delights throughout the night. Homely and eccentric in equal measure, it’s somewhere I’d happily spend all evening with a bottle of pomegranate wine and an endless array of dishes.

One of the great aspects of Yerevan is that it’s brilliantly walkable - I didn’t take public transport or a taxi at any point, and yet I feel I saw the city’s key features over four days of pounding the pavement. The aforementioned Square of the Republic satisfies with its gargantuan columns and monumental crescent buildings, and the Cascade - a sort of open-air contemporary art museum set around an enormous staircase - is an unmissable stop. From the top of the Cascade and by the towering monument of Mother Armenia, you’ll be able to catch a glimpse of the iconic Mount Ararat on the horizon and the mountain ranges that stretch off into the distance. Deeply atmospheric and endlessly surprising, Yerevan is somewhere I’m already looking forward to exploring further.

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